Coromandel to Auckland

01/06/08: 57km, climb: 865m, Coromandel - Port Jackson
02/06/08: 17km, climb: 750m, Port Jackson - Stony Bay DOC
03/06/08: 26km, climb: 544m, Stony Bay - Waikaway Bay DOC
04/06/08: 30km, climb: 758m, Waikawau - Coromandel
05/06/08: 12km, Coromandel - Te Kouma Harbour - Auckland

In Coromandel we did our last shopping before heading to the remote northern tip of the penninsula. The road ceased to be sealed pretty much straight away which is a good thing as it is less attractive for cars and we hardly saw any. The coastal road was pretty flat and along the sea for once with beautiful old gnarly trees lining it. After lunch it went straight uphill and in the end we decided to call it a day in Port Jackson rather than Fletcher Bay as the campsite was apparently under construction and so we had it almost to ourselves.

The next day we cycled the 7km to Fletcher Bay where we sat on the beach eating bread and drinking tea. We were glad we did not spend the night there as there where more campers and it would not have suited our reclusive nature. Had we known the mission awaiting us we would not have taken our time though, we only knew the next 10km were a hiking trail. 10km is not too bad we thought and set off around noon.

After a few hundred meters we bumped into two condescending old hikers that were geared up as if they were heading for Mount Everest. With raised eyebrows they told us the path is not recommended for panniers and the easy option along the coast is not allowed for bikes. Nothing we did not know so we pushed past them, being merely encouraged by their patronising ways. After fighting our way over the muddy track (it had rained last night) having backflashes of Cambodia we did come to the intersection describing the route which immediately we wished we had not read. We spent the next few hours pushing our bikes along a steep ridge, having to both move one bike at a time at some parts of the way. We got to the summit around 4pm looking forward to a thrilling descent, but encountered a rather scary steep washed out bumpy limestone track instead. Yes, we were rather glad when we reached the campsite at Stony Bay at last. Needing some sort of revival, we jumped into the river for a wash, even though it was cold and dark before sleeping fast and sound.

Next morning we were woken by some ducks who did not part from our side all morning, accompanying us to wash our bikes in the river, to the beach and watching us having breakfast and lunch. We had our first and last swim in the sea in NZ and enjoyed the beautiful rocky beach, not getting on our bikes until after lunchtime. Being back on a four wheel drive track felt luxury and riding felt easy. That night we were the only campers at the beautiful Waikaway Beach.

In the morning we went for a walk on the beach before Bea dropped her camera in the toilet, but that's another story. From there we got back to Coromandel Town via three hills and took the ferry to Auckland the following day, where we enjoyed the advantages of a big city and were not used to the disadvantages.

Oh shit we have ran out of time...

Port Jackson



attacking the hiking trail next morning

soft landing


pushing our bikes from sea level to 580m


eventually, the view from top

inquisitive little visitors at Stony Bay

our shower



Waikawau Beach

Rotorua to Coromandel

27/05/08: 63km, climb 663m, Rotorua - Tauranga
28/05/08: 95km, climb 1103m, Tauranga - Whangamata DOC
29/05/08: 69km, climb 786m, Whangamata - Hot Water Beach
30/05/08: 30km, Hot Water Beach - Whitianga
31/05/08: 44km, climb 823m, Whitianga - Coromandel

The ride from Rotorua to Tauranga was nice as it was sunny, mainly downhill and there was not much traffic. We camped in the garden of a friendly hostel in Tauranga and got sucked into TV for the night.

The road from Tauranga to Waihi the next day was terrible, or the combination of traffic and narrow road were. At least it was still sunny. In Waihi we left the road to Auckland behind and all the traffic which was a relief, but we ended up cycling into the dark trying to get to a DOC campsite marked ambiguously on our map. We did try and pay for the campsite for once, but were only greeted by a friendly dog who would not accept our money. During the night a possum kept trying to get into our tent, pressing its furry bottom to the tentwalls, but we did not let it in and wished we took the dog along as guard.

We continued on to Hot Water Beach the next day, which has a hot spring under the sand accessible at low tide. Then you can dig a hole and have a nice hot bath. On advice of a local we disobeyed the 'No Camping' signs. He also lent us a spade. Low tide was after dark so we decided to just dig our hole at the break of dawn, when the next low tide was. We were the first people on the beach, hitting it even before the sun. We found the hot patches and dug ourselves a hole, and a lovely warm bath. Unfortunately a wave came over our defense wall and cooled it down a bit, but it was still worth it. Tepid Water Beach.

Later that morning we set off and passed a few other stunning beaches, mostly lined with flash holiday homes. We went for a walk down to Cathedral Cove (a beautiful bay) and then passed by the Purangi Winery where we were plied with lots of tasty wine and fruit liquor samples. Our super fit cyclist constitution falls to pieces as soon as alcohol is involved, so we did not make it further than Whitianga that afternoon. I think we may have even stood on the oldest stone wharf in the country. In fact it may have been the oldest stone wharf in Australasia. If only we were sober enough to appreciate it.

The next day was short but pretty hilly and very pretty. In Coromandel town we checked into a lovely comfy hostel with fairlylights and a fireplace and dined on the local speciality of smoked seafood and another dose of TV.



Hot Water Beach







Cathedral Cove