In the beginning we were not quite sure what to expect of this trip. We were to stay with people from the village in their houses, and the thought of these peoples lifes being a tourist attraction was a bit strange. We doubted that they enjoy tourists coming to take photos of them, eating with them and staying in their houses but we guessed they appreciate the money it brings to the village, or maybe we are as much of an attraction to them as they are to us.
The first day contained the most walking out of the three days, along small trails through the jungle and along the ridges of hills. It was classed as 'moderately difficult' but was fairly easy with many breaks and ancient Lao tales to be told by our guide. He also taught us about wildlife and which plants are edible while snubbing any other beautiful plant that was not edible. He ate some red ants in front of us emphasising that they contain much vitamin C and he sang songs, keeping us well entertained.
On the first day we stopped for lunch at an abandoned village where we had our first of many banana leaf picnics (we did not eat the banana leaves, but they make a great table). And later we went for a wash in the river, our guide being the first one to jump in in his underpants covering himself in plenty of soapfoam before getting out the washing powder to wash his clothes.
In the late afternoon we arrived at the Akha village where we were to spend our first night. Before entering any village we were told how to behave in order not to offend the village spirtits which would cause the inhabitants to make a sacrifice in form of one of their precious animals. After being introduced to the man at whos house we were to sleep (who seemed to be quite pleased with our visit) we went to have a look around the village. Lots of children were running around in beautiful traditional handmade dress and Kiki was still suspiciously wondering if they were just made to dress like that for us tourist. It felt very strange to be in the middle of somewhere we did not belong to at all. Encouraged by our trigger happy companions, we got over our concerns and enjoyed the company of the children and even took some photos. At dinner we sat with our hosts and guides, only men, as the women were only allowed to eat after the men (The Akha people seem to have many strict old fashioned rules like this). No welcoming of any guest to the village is complete without some shots of Lao Lao wiskey and equally in return Lao Lao whisky should be bought and consumed with the host to thank them. Needless to say, we slept like logs despite the racket the dogs, cockrels, pigs and the many people and children sharing the big house made.
The next day it looked like it was going to rain, so we changed plans to take a shorter route staying in a Khmu village, which our guide (Khmu himself) seemed very keen on. We set off after another few shots of breakfast Lao Lao for good luck, and then we had to pass through another Akha village, which meant going to say hello to the headman and being welcomed with yet another few shots of Lao Lao. We started to get the full picture of village life, the men quite often seemed to be sitting together having important meetings involving a bottle of clear liquid while the women worked.
We arrived in the Khmu village pretty early in the afternoon and were slightly disappointed as it seemed a bit boring and normal after the alien Akha experience. By now we were used to our tourist attraction with people dressed up, and the threat of a buffalo having to be sacrificed if we walked through sacred ground or talked to someone with a flower behind their ear. The day had a fine end though as the dinner turned into a jolly drinking and singing party as the welcoming and thanking ceremonies bounced back and forth in an endless liquid loop.
The last day we visited some caves and yet another village of another people, the Lahu, who had a festival going since three days and everyone was substantially plastered. By that time Bea had learned to skillfully tip out the (5 glasses of) Lao Lao welcoming drink behind the host's back. Seeing how drunk the men were after 3 days of festivities it required less skill than usual.
Before setting off on our bikes again the next day we had a big dinner with both our guides and their families which was lovely.
first of many delicious picnics prepared by our guides
Akha village
visiting the school
Khmu village
explanation of how not to offend the village spirits
dinner being caught
visiting some caves
Lahu village
